![]() COLOR REMOVERS work differently than bleach in that they don’t do anything to your natural hair color.Sometimes the best thing you can tell a guest is NO. "If they don’t understand this, or believe you, let another salon make the mistake, not you. Van Osten says to always remember, you will not be able to take a client from a level 2 to level 10 in one visit or even 1 month. ![]() It is brilliant as an after color service, color lock." When we shampooed out this final formula, we use Wella Magma Pure Shine Sealer to lock the color by balancing the PH & closing the cuticle. I also am a huge fan of Magma 44 which is a fire engine red. It is also brilliant to use on gray retouches when you want to add a caramel highlight. ![]() It is a lightener that lifts and deposits a level 7 caramel tone all at once. "I used Wella Magma 07+ with 20 volume and did an 'ombre' foil placement to further break up the color and provide some glow to the ends," Van Osten says. We then shampooed and lightly conditioned." This processed at room temperature for 30 minutes. I used a level 7 so I could allow it to sink a bit without going too dark. It is a demi-permanent, but absorbed as a permanent due to how porous her hair was after our lift. "I went over all of her hair with 7N in PM shines. "With Stina, we reached a 6 in some places and 7 in others," Van Osten says. Next, dry the hair and make sure you have reached your target level or above. Then shampoo thoroughly and lightly condition. We actually did the back 1/2 of her hair first then rinsed and did the front half." Once the darkest area of the hair has reached the desired target level, let it process slightly longer. "If there is a TON of hair like in Stina’s case, two of us do the application so we can keep the processing time consistent. Using a thin mixture of Wella Blondor powder lightener+ 20 volume, start applying at the darkest part up to the line of natural growth. Also be sure they have 3-4 hours and make sure they are fed." "So super-duper important to gain their trust early on in this tedious color process. "By letting them know what you expect, they won’t freak when they see it," Van Osten says. Prior to Step 2, WARN your guest that after this next step, their hair will look very scary.Yellow and orange. I’m sure you will agree, there's nothing worse than being unable to deliver the results you promised to your guest." No matter how much of an ASH shade you use to go over the underlying pigment you uncover. ![]() "If your guest says 'NO RED' they are on crack," laughs Van Osten. Her color was layered on and the test strand revealed what Van Osten calls "the Big Stick effect: pale yellow down to orange down to red on the ends." Stina's hair did lift to a level 6, so that is what Van Osten gave her as a target shade. Stina had been box coloring her hair black at home for more than 3 years. Where is the line of demarcation for their natural color and dark color? Are there surprising highlights from when they were blonde last summer and forgot to mention it to you? You will find out through a test strand." "We use Wella Blondor with 30-volume for the test strand under heat for 5-10 minutes. "Always take a test strand before making any promises or giving pricing to your guest," Van Osten says.
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